Benares, an Indian Ocean in Midtown

Benares, a restaurant that opened this week in a space formerly occupied by a branch of the Baluchi’s chain, uses the old name for Varanasi, a city on the Ganges. Peter Beck, the chef, said he is featuring a potato dish with a vegetable topping from that city.But the emphasis, along with other vegetarian choices, is on the ocean. “There’s not enough seafood in Indian restaurants,” the chef said. Look for South Indian rice noodles with mixed shellfish.Benares, 240 West 56th Street, (212)

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